Sasha Chapman pens a love letter to mass-produced macaroni and cheese, known to Canadians as "Kraft Dinner":

In 1997, sixty years after the first box promised "dinner in seven minutes — no baking required," we celebrated by making Kraft Dinner the top-selling grocery item in the country. This makes KD, not poutine, our de facto national dish. We eat 3.2 boxes each in an average year, about 55 percent more than Americans do. We are also the only people to refer to Kraft Dinner as a generic for instant mac and cheese. The Barenaked Ladies sang wistfully about eating the stuff: "If I had a million dollars / we wouldn’t have to eat Kraft Dinner / But we would eat Kraft Dinner / Of course we would, we’d just eat more." In response, fans threw boxes of KD at the band members as they performed. This was an act of veneration.

True, Canada is just one outpost in Kraft’s globalized food system.