<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="yes"?><oembed><version><![CDATA[1.0]]></version><provider_name><![CDATA[Atmel | Bits &amp; Pieces]]></provider_name><provider_url><![CDATA[https://atmelcorporation.wordpress.com]]></provider_url><author_name><![CDATA[The Atmel Team]]></author_name><author_url><![CDATA[https://atmelcorporation.wordpress.com/author/atmelstaff/]]></author_url><title><![CDATA[Sketching a LilyPad sensor demo&nbsp;mat]]></title><type><![CDATA[link]]></type><html><![CDATA[<p>The <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardLilyPad">Atmel-based LilyPad Arduino</a> &#8211; designed by <a href="http://leahbuechley.org">Leah Buechley</a> and <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com">SparkFun Electronics</a> &#8211; is targeted specifically at wearables and e-textiles.</p>
<span class="embed-youtube" style="text-align:center; display: block;"><iframe class='youtube-player' width='640' height='360' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/L4a89n4ZJ5w?version=3&#038;rel=0&#038;fs=1&#038;autohide=2&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;wmode=transparent' allowfullscreen='true' style='border:0;'></iframe></span>
<p>The platform, powered by either the <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ATMEGA168V-10AU/ATMEGA168V-10AU-ND/735440">ATmega168V</a> (the low-power version of the ATmega168) or the <a href="http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/atmega328v.html">ATmega328V</a>, can be sewn to fabric and similarly mounted power supplies, sensors and actuators with conductive thread.</p>
<p>Recently, <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/LilyPad-Arduino-Sensor-Demo-Mat/?ALLSTEPS">a Maker by the name of Duniken</a> created a sensor demo mat for the LilyPad and posted a detailed description of the build on <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/LilyPad-Arduino-Sensor-Demo-Mat/?ALLSTEPS">Instructables</a>.</p>
<p>&#8220;I wanted a place where I could experiment with the different sensors, but also something that I could use to show examples of what can be done without constantly uploading code,&#8221; he explained.</p>
<span class="embed-youtube" style="text-align:center; display: block;"><iframe class='youtube-player' width='640' height='360' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/h84Y3rNPm2Y?version=3&#038;rel=0&#038;fs=1&#038;autohide=2&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;wmode=transparent' allowfullscreen='true' style='border:0;'></iframe></span>
<p>Key project components?</p>
<ul>
<li>  1 x ProtoSnap &#8211; LilyPad Development Board (kit) which includes the following:</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Simple Board</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Button</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Slide Switch</li>
<li>5 x LilyPad White LED</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad RGB tri-color LED</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Light Sensor</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Temp Sensor</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Buzzer</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad Vibe board</li>
<li>1 x LilyPad FTDI Basic</li>
<li>2 x Conductive Thread Bobbin</li>
<li>1 x Needle Set</li>
</ul>
<p>Duniken also used:</p>
<ul>
<li>  7 x sewable snaps</li>
<li>1 x Piece of fabric big enough to hold all of the sensors</li>
<li>1 x Fabric Marking pen</li>
</ul>
<p>&#8220;Although I had the LilyPad Development Board, I decided to use the LilyPad Simple Board so I could use the extra pins as switches,&#8221; he clarified.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" src="https://i1.wp.com/cdn.instructables.com/F9K/NGU6/HUEELYZO/F9KNGU6HUEELYZO.MEDIUM.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="377" /></p>
<p>After drawing up a diagram using LucidChart, Duniken arranged the sensors and switches on the fabric, using the marking pen to indicate where each pin and component would be placed.</p>
<p>&#8220;I removed the sensors and used the marking pen to draw the circuit onto the fabric with a ruler to make sure all of my lines were straight. When I had the lines drawn, I again placed the sensors on the mat to make sure that everything lined up the way I wanted it to,&#8221; said Duniken.</p>
<p>&#8220;I ended up changing the position of the RGB light slightly so the lines were less likely to make contact with the other pins on the LilyPad. I wanted the lines to be part of the final piece so, once I was satisfied with the diagram, I traced the lines with a permanent marker. If I did it over, I would probably color code the lines so that it can be better used to explain how the circuit works.&#8221;</p>
<p>Next, Duniken cleaned off the marking pen, stitched on the sensors and other components, sewed the circuits and sketched the code.</p>
<p>&#8220;To ensure that the sensors stayed put while I sewed the circuits, I did a quick stitch with plain thread to hold the components in place. Using the conductive thread, I sewed along each of the circuit lines connecting the different components to the LilyPad,&#8221; he added.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" src="https://i0.wp.com/cdn.instructables.com/FGI/GU72/HUEELYZR/FGIGU72HUEELYZR.MEDIUM.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="474" /></p>
<p>&#8220;Be careful where the Positive lines (red) cross the Ground lines (black). I used a small piece of plastic cut from the LilyPad packaging to make sure that the lines didn’t short. I used hot glue to tack down the plastic so it wouldn&#8217;t snag on anything.&#8221;</p>
<p>Interested in learning more about designing your own Arduino Lilypad Sensor Demo Mat? You can check out the <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/LilyPad-Arduino-Sensor-Demo-Mat/?ALLSTEPS">project&#8217;s Instructables page here</a>.</p>
]]></html><thumbnail_url><![CDATA[https://i1.wp.com/cdn.instructables.com/F9K/NGU6/HUEELYZO/F9KNGU6HUEELYZO.MEDIUM.jpg?fit=440%2C330]]></thumbnail_url><thumbnail_width><![CDATA[440]]></thumbnail_width><thumbnail_height><![CDATA[268]]></thumbnail_height></oembed>