<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="yes"?><oembed><version><![CDATA[1.0]]></version><provider_name><![CDATA[Occasionally Coherent]]></provider_name><provider_url><![CDATA[http://blog.bimajority.org]]></provider_url><author_name><![CDATA[Garrett Wollman]]></author_name><author_url><![CDATA[https://blog.bimajority.org/author/garrettwollman/]]></author_url><title><![CDATA[Menu planning for&nbsp;Thanksgiving]]></title><type><![CDATA[link]]></type><html><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg"><img data-attachment-id="110" data-permalink="https://blog.bimajority.org/2013/11/16/menu-planning-for-thanksgiving/t-day-cookbooks/" data-orig-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg" data-orig-size="586,788" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}" data-image-title="T-day cookbooks" data-image-description="&lt;p&gt;A pile of cookbooks with Thanksgiving-related recipes sitting on my dinner table.&lt;/p&gt;
" data-medium-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg?w=223&#038;h=300" data-large-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg?w=586" src="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg?w=223&#038;h=300" alt="T-day cookbooks" width="223" height="300" class="alignright size-medium wp-image-110" srcset="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg?w=223&amp;h=300 223w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg?w=446&amp;h=600 446w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/t-day-cookbooks.jpg?w=112&amp;h=150 112w" sizes="(max-width: 223px) 100vw, 223px" /></a><br />
Two Thursdays from now is probably the last Thanksgiving in a while that I will drive down to my parents&#8217; house and take the lead in preparing the big family meal. Once they move away, I&#8217;ll either be flying out just for the holiday, or we will all travel to some other location, so I won&#8217;t be in a position to make Thanksgiving dinner again.  (Any attractive, athletic younger people who have a thing for homely, overweight older guys are totally welcome to help remedy that!)  I&#8217;m still working out the menu plan, and when posted a photo of a big pile of cookbooks on Twitter a few minutes ago, it immediately occurred to me that I should have made a blog post instead.  So here is where I&#8217;m at:</p>
<p>I make a standard turkey stock from frozen turkey wings a few weeks ahead of time, which is used in the gravy and the stuffing.  The bird itself will continue to be the Test Kitchen&#8217;s dry-salted and barded bird (<a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/4950-old-fashioned-stuffed-turkey?incode=MCSCZ00L0">&#8220;Old Fashioned Stuffed Turkey&#8221;</a>, <cite>Cook&#8217;s Illustrated</cite>, 11/2009) with the Web-only companion recipes for <a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/4975-sausage-and-fennel-stuffing">sausage and fennel stuffing</a> and <a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/2685-best-turkey-gravy">turkey gravy</a>.  This recipe gives a juicy, well-seasoned bird with a crisp, golden skin, but does require some advance preparation.  Photos to come on the day appointed.</p>
<p>Usually my mother will take care of vegetables, dinner rolls, and pie.  I generally don&#8217;t like the traditional Thanksgiving vegetables (carrots, parsnips, Brussels sprouts) so we&#8217;ll do something like spinach, which I actually do like.  I&#8217;m looking at three different creamed spinach recipes (normally I wouldn&#8217;t do creamed spinach, but it&#8217;s better for sharing than my usual sauteed spinach with onions and peppers, and fits with the traditional richness of the day):</p>
<ul>
<li>&#8220;Creamed spinach with nutmeg and parmesan&#8221;, from Christopher Kimball&#8217;s <cite>Yellow Farmhouse Cookbook</cite>, p. 189. (3 lb spinach, 1 pt cream, onion)</li>
<li>&#8220;Spinaci alla crema&#8221;, from <cite>The Silver Spoon</cite>, p. 568. (2 1/4 lb spinach, 1 cup cream)</li>
<li>Alice Waters&#8217; creamed spinach, from her <cite>The Art of Simple Food</cite>, p. 312 (1 lb spinach, 1/3 cup cream, onion)</li>
</ul>
<p>All of the recipes are made with nutmeg and parmesan, so I&#8217;m not sure why Kimball feels the need to call it out.  Kimball&#8217;s notes claim that other recipes are not rich enough (!) and leave a bitter taste, hence the 3:1 ratio of spinach to cream (the others are 4.5:1 and 6:1, respectively).  I&#8217;m not sure I believe this, but it might be worth a try.  The principal open question for me is whether I&#8217;ll be able to use one of the recipes with onion in it; some family members are anti-onion, but I don&#8217;t know if they&#8217;ll be having dinner with us or would eat creamed spinach anyway.  I&#8217;m pretty sure one pound of spinach is not enough (I can eat half of that just on my own!) so if I made Waters&#8217; recipe I&#8217;d probably have to double it.</p>
<p>The other thing I&#8217;d like to do is to dispense with the dinner rolls and have cornbread instead.  I&#8217;ve found numerous possibilities, and I&#8217;m not sure which will be best:</p>
<ul>
<li>The Test Kitchen has both Northern- and Southern-style cornbread recipes (<cite>The New Best Recipe</cite>, pp. 693&#8211;695), which are fairly traditional.</li>
<li>King Arthur Flour&#8217;s <cite>Whole-Grain Baking</cite> has a recipe (p. 556) that uses buttermilk and honey, and also includes some odd flour. (Whole-wheat pastry flour? Whole corn meal? Where am I going to get those without mail-ordering them from the KAF store?)</li>
<li>Greg Patent&#8217;s <cite>Baking in America</cite> has a <em>very</em> old-fashioned (as in, before chemical leaveners) recipe (p. 118) for a yeasted cornbread that sounds interesting, although it makes a much larger quantity than any of the other recipes (which are all done in a 9&#215;9 square pan or a 9-inch cast-iron skillet).</li>
<li>Alton Brown&#8217;s <cite>I&#8217;m Just Here for More Food</cite> has a skillet cornbread recipe (p. 118) which, oddly enough, uses all-purpose flour, unlike traditional Southern cornbread which has no wheat flour.  Brown&#8217;s <cite>Good Eats</cite> cornbread recipe uses creamed corn, which makes it unsuitable for this time of year (since corn has been out of season for a couple of months now).</li>
</ul>
<p>Any comments from people who have tried these recipes are welcome.  Hopefully other people can benefit from the experience, and I&#8217;ll update once I&#8217;ve made a final decision.</p>
<p>UPDATE (2013-11-18): We&#8217;re going to do the onion-free Italian version of creamed spinach, and I&#8217;m probably going to do the leavened cornbread (although, having done the research, I&#8217;m feeling mildly inclined to try some of the others at home now).</p>
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