<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="yes"?><oembed><version><![CDATA[1.0]]></version><provider_name><![CDATA[Occasionally Coherent]]></provider_name><provider_url><![CDATA[http://blog.bimajority.org]]></provider_url><author_name><![CDATA[Garrett Wollman]]></author_name><author_url><![CDATA[https://blog.bimajority.org/author/garrettwollman/]]></author_url><title><![CDATA[Diane Duane&#8217;s <em>Braunekuchen</em> and ATK&#8217;s cheese&nbsp;souffle]]></title><type><![CDATA[link]]></type><html><![CDATA[<p>A few weeks ago, I said that I was making <em>Braunekuchen</em>, a northern German spice cookie, from <a href="http://dianeduane.com/outofambit/2014/01/01/holiday-baking-department-braunekuchen-brown-biscuits/">a recipe Diane Duane posted</a> on her blog.  I made them the Sunday before Martin Luther King Day, and I&#8217;ve been eating them (and offering them to others at the office) since.  I used (bought!) palm-oil shortening, since I knew some people would object to both lard and <em>trans</em> fat, but otherwise stuck to the recipe (which gave the important measurements by mass, although this made it difficult to do the nutrition computation).  The recipe requires a 24-hour room-temperature rest for the dough; since it contains no eggs, I did not consider that to be a safety concern.  After resting, it looks like this:<br />
<div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_266" style="width: 1034px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg"><img data-attachment-id="266" data-permalink="https://blog.bimajority.org/2014/02/01/diane-duanes-braunekuchen-and-atks-cheese-souffle/braunekuchen-dough/" data-orig-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg" data-orig-size="2220,1960" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;4.5&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Garrett Wollman&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;After sitting on the counter for a day, the dough is divided in preparation for rolling out&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1390167552&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;\u00a92014 Garrett A. Wollman&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;33&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.016666666666667&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Braunekuchen dough&quot;}" data-image-title="Braunekuchen dough" data-image-description="&lt;p&gt;After sitting on the counter for a day, the dough is divided in preparation for rolling out&lt;/p&gt;
" data-medium-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=1024" src="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=1024&#038;h=904" alt="Photo of cookie dough waiting to be rolled out"   class="size-large wp-image-266" srcset="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=1024&amp;h=904 1024w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=2048&amp;h=1808 2048w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=150&amp;h=132 150w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=300&amp;h=265 300w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=768&amp;h=678 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">After sitting on the counter for a day, the dough is divided in preparation for rolling out.  I ended up dividing it into fourths because my rolling surface is so limited.</p></div></p>
<p>The dough was fairly sticky and difficult to work with, so I ended up working a good bit of extra flour into the cookies as I rolled and cut them.  The recipe calls for rolling to 1/8&#8243; thickness, so I was able to use my 1/8&#8243; spacers, but on a tapered rolling pin like the one I have, that doesn&#8217;t leave a lot of usable width.  I should probably switch to a straight pin like all the cool bakers are using now.  (I bought the French-style tapered pin back when those were the cool thing.)  As a result, I ended up with lots of flour on the surface of the cookies:<br />
<div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_267" style="width: 1034px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg"><img data-attachment-id="267" data-permalink="https://blog.bimajority.org/2014/02/01/diane-duanes-braunekuchen-and-atks-cheese-souffle/baked-braunekuchen/" data-orig-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg" data-orig-size="2899,1551" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;4&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Garrett Wollman&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;Twelve baked Braunekuchen, all showing a bit of excess flour, an artifact of the rolling process&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1390171179&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;\u00a92014 Garrett A. Wollman&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;17&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.016666666666667&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;Baked Braunekuchen&quot;}" data-image-title="Baked Braunekuchen" data-image-description="&lt;p&gt;Twelve baked Braunekuchen, all showing a bit of excess flour, an artifact of the rolling process&lt;/p&gt;
" data-medium-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=1024" src="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=1024&#038;h=547" alt="Photo of twelve thin, brown, cookies in a variety of shapes, cooling on a rack"   class="size-large wp-image-267" srcset="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=1022&amp;h=547 1022w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=2045&amp;h=1094 2045w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=150&amp;h=80 150w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=300&amp;h=161 300w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-2-of-3.jpg?w=768&amp;h=411 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Twelve Braunekuchen on a sheet of baking parchment, with excess flour used during rolling making white spots on the surface of the cookies.</p></div></p>
<p>There&#8217;s not a huge variety of shapes; I had to look around for something that wasn&#8217;t the standard Wilton &#8220;box of 100 cheap plastic children&#8217;s cookie cutters&#8221; that the stores seemed to be full of.  I got a set of six metal cookie cutters: a moon, two stars, a flower, a heart, and a parallelogram with scalloped edges.  Even with just a few cookie cutters, I was reminded of what a PITA rolled cookies like these are; the biggest difficulty is always getting the &#8220;figure&#8221; free of the &#8220;ground&#8221; without tearing or leaving a mess on the work surface.  (Maybe I would have had an easier time using a silicone mat.)  The recipe made about 45 cookies (counting the uncooked dough that I ate because it wasn&#8217;t worth rolling out again).  Here&#8217;s a close-up of a single finished cookie:<br />
<div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_268" style="width: 1034px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg"><img data-attachment-id="268" data-permalink="https://blog.bimajority.org/2014/02/01/diane-duanes-braunekuchen-and-atks-cheese-souffle/a-single-cookie/" data-orig-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg" data-orig-size="1948,1593" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;5.6&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Garrett Wollman&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;My kit of cookie cutters included a heart, two kinds of stars, a moon, a flower, and parallelogram with scalloped edges. I made mostly hearts and stars.&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1390171192&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;\u00a92014 Garrett A. Wollman&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;85&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.016666666666667&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;A single cookie&quot;}" data-image-title="A single cookie" data-image-description="&lt;p&gt;My kit of cookie cutters included a heart, two kinds of stars, a moon, a flower, and parallelogram with scalloped edges. I made mostly hearts and stars.&lt;/p&gt;
" data-medium-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=1024" src="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=1024&#038;h=837" alt="Photo of a thin, heart-shaped cookie cooling on a rack"   class="size-large wp-image-268" srcset="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=1024&amp;h=837 1024w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=150&amp;h=123 150w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=300&amp;h=245 300w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg?w=768&amp;h=628 768w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-3-of-3.jpg 1948w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">I made more hearts and stars than anything else.</p></div></p>
<p>After all that, how were they?  Kinda &#8220;enh&#8221;: they were certainly crisp and brown, as the recipe claims, but the flavor left a lot to be desired in my book. Perhaps my spices were too old?  Or maybe I overbaked them?  It&#8217;s hard to tell.  But I don&#8217;t feel any inclination to try again; there are other holiday desserts I could make that I would enjoy vastly more that take less work (or less fiddly work, at any rate).</p>
<p>Now on to part two of this post, which is the <a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/7670-cheese-souffle?incode=MCSCZ00L0">cheese souffle</a> from January&#8217;s <cite>Cook&#8217;s Illustrated</cite>.  The test cooks actually worked pretty hard to make this recipe much less fiddly than traditional souffles, although I&#8217;d hesitate to call it &#8220;foolproof&#8221;; the cheese-sauce base is totally standard, but the mixing process is much more aggressive than most recipes call for.  I actually put off doing this so that I could get the Emile Henry two-quart (two-liter?) souffle dish that <a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/equipment_reviews/1483-souffle-dishes">they recommended</a>.  For the cheese, I used <a href="http://www.emmi-kaltbach.ch/en/our-cave-aged-cheeses/kaltbach-le-gruyere-aop.html">Emmi Kaltbach Gruyere</a>.  The result was pretty good: the souffle rose as expected (despite not being coddled like a premature baby), and it had a rich, robust Swiss-cheesy flavor.  Of course, as soon as it was out of the oven, it started deflating, a process which accelerated when I took my serving out:<br />
<div data-shortcode="caption" id="attachment_299" style="width: 1034px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg"><img data-attachment-id="299" data-permalink="https://blog.bimajority.org/2014/02/01/diane-duanes-braunekuchen-and-atks-cheese-souffle/atk-cheese-souffle/" data-orig-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg" data-orig-size="2055,1803" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-meta="{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;4&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Garrett Wollman&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;About ten minutes out of the oven, and the souffle has already deflated nearly two inches from its original height!&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1391291119&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;\u00a92014 Garrett A. Wollman&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;17&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.016666666666667&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;ATK Cheese souffle&quot;}" data-image-title="ATK Cheese souffle" data-image-description="&lt;p&gt;About ten minutes out of the oven, and the souffle has already deflated nearly two inches from its original height!&lt;/p&gt;
" data-medium-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=1024" src="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=1024&#038;h=898" alt="Photo showing a cheese souffle, browned on top, sinking back into its two-quart souffle dish. One serving has been removed."   class="size-large wp-image-299" srcset="https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=1024&amp;h=898 1024w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=2048&amp;h=1796 2048w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=150&amp;h=132 150w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=300&amp;h=263 300w, https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/cheese-souffle-1-of-1.jpg?w=768&amp;h=674 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">About ten minutes out of the oven, and the souffle has already deflated nearly two inches from its original height!</p></div></p>
<p>Having done it this way, I wouldn&#8217;t mind having a variant recipe that used single-serving souffle dishes, so that the leftovers could be reheated easily to bring that poof back.  I doubt that this one can just be heated to reinflate it after having a portion removed.</p>
<h2>Nutrition data &#8212; <em>Braunekuchen</em></h2>
<table width="40%" rules="groups" border="2" class="nutrition">
<caption>Nutrition Facts</caption>
<tbody class="servings">
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Serving size: 2 cookies</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Servings per container: about 22</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody class="calories">
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Amount per serving</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Calories</b> 147</td>
<td align="right">Calories from fat 55</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody class="main">
<tr>
<td colspan="2" align="right">% Daily Value</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Total Fat</b> 6g</td>
<td align="right">9%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Saturated Fat 1g</td>
<td align="right">5%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Polyunsaturated Fat 0g</td>
<td>&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Monounsaturated Fat 0.5g</td>
<td>&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;<em>Trans</em> Fat 0g</td>
<td>&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Cholesterol</b> 4.1mg</td>
<td align="right">1%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Sodium</b> 47mg</td>
<td align="right">2%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Potassium</b> 49mg</td>
<td align="right">1%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Total Carbohydrate</b> 21g</td>
<td align="right">7%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Dietary fiber less than 1g</td>
<td align="right">&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Sugars 10g</td>
<td align="right">&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Proteins</b> 2g</td>
<td align="right">4%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody class="vitamins">
<tr>
<td>Vitamin A</td>
<td align="right">&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Vitamin C</td>
<td align="right">1%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Calcium</td>
<td align="right">1%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Iron</td>
<td align="right">3%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h2>Nutrition data &#8212; cheese souffle</h2>
<table width="40%" rules="groups" border="2" class="nutrition">
<caption>Nutrition Facts</caption>
<tbody class="servings">
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Serving size: 1/5 souffle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Servings per container: 5</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody class="calories">
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Amount per serving</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Calories</b> 372</td>
<td align="right">Calories from fat 255</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody class="main">
<tr>
<td colspan="2" align="right">% Daily Value</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Total Fat</b> 28g</td>
<td align="right">43%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Saturated Fat 15g</td>
<td align="right">75%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Monounsaturated Fat 0g</td>
<td>&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;<em>Trans</em> Fat 0g</td>
<td>&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Cholesterol</b> 278mg</td>
<td align="right">93%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Sodium</b> 479mg</td>
<td align="right">20%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Potassium</b> 112mg</td>
<td align="right">3%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Total Carbohydrate</b> 8g</td>
<td align="right">3%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Dietary fiber 0g</td>
<td align="right">&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&#x2001;Sugars 2g</td>
<td align="right">&#x200b;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><b>Proteins</b> 22g</td>
<td align="right">44%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody class="vitamins">
<tr>
<td>Vitamin A</td>
<td align="right">26%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Vitamin C</td>
<td align="right">1%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Calcium</td>
<td align="right">48%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Iron</td>
<td align="right">7%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
]]></html><thumbnail_url><![CDATA[https://occasionallycoherent.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/braunekuchen-1-of-3.jpg?w=640&fit=440%2C330]]></thumbnail_url><thumbnail_width><![CDATA[374]]></thumbnail_width><thumbnail_height><![CDATA[330]]></thumbnail_height></oembed>